[Macros]

I'll probably get one of the pool table trolleys so it can be pushed against the wall easily when not in use.

Morgy I'm aiming for spring sometime next year to be provisionally moving furniture in, but I wouldn't go booking flights just yet!

[Macros]

Baby has arrived and is ready for Christmas rocking

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[Macros]

Any of our forumite builders ever fit PVC windows?

easy to do, hard to do?

[Anomander]

It's not too hard overall. Difficulties usually involve too little of a gap around the window during install (ie. poor measuring) or discovering the wall conditions to sub-par for anchorage. Additionally, blueskin the whole opening before install to avoid leaks. Foremost is to make sure the window is level! Angled or askew vinyl windows will start fucking up in short order compared to aluminum or steel models.

What level of experience do you have with window installation? Also there are some considerations when it comes to the glass you install (putting certain films on glass will invalidate warranties and you want to avoid getting mutton bars put into sealed units as it will lower the lifespan of the unit).

For reference I work in project coordination/drafting for a commercial aluminum and glass company (door and windows are our jam). What scale job are you planning?

EDIT: I would also install sill flashing for each window.

[Slow Ben]

Thats basically all we use here. Ano got most of it.

It also matters whether it is a New Construction window, which has a nailing flange on the outside, or Replacement, which you screw in through the jamb into the interior studs. It also could matter what type of siding you have.

Also, make sure you use low expanding foam around the inside to prevent drafts.

I use a different brand, but the blueskin is a must.

[Messremb]

No one asked Mac the important question - wall structure (since he's not in North America where people delight in living in a timber shed)

Existing hole or new build Mac? Retrofitted tend to be masonry screwed into the breeze then the panes fitted. Put a cavity closer round the void if there is one, weatherproof sealant bond between frame and wall.

If you're making a new hole I'm sure you know how to do that from sites, get a DPC in over your new lintel for any cavity moisture.

As above check check check it is even and straight. Wedges give you a bit of wiggle room.

[Slow Ben]

Yeah, almost no masonry here, unless it’s commercial. Almost all residential brick is just a veneer.

[Macros]

wonderful stuff!


to reply to everyone at once:

its not a new build, its my shed conversion. so 50% of the windows will be me cutting a hole in Tin and building a timber frame surrounding the hole. from what little I know I will me making the hole 10mm bigger than my window.
the other 50% will be cut into masonry (single block wall)

I have bought the windows second hand so I am making the openings to fit the window (not proper second hand, they were windows ordered for a project, wrong size so sent back. (got 6 windows and a front door for £240 take that THE MAN)
do I need DPC down on the timber surround as well or only on the block?

[Macros]

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see attached the shed in question (thank you invasive google)

[Tsundoku]

I take it the potato field is out the back?

[Macros]

Naturally

[Una]

Official wedding photos are out!

I made this dress by hand. I probably didn't save that much money. Lace is expensive! But boy did I get exactly what I wanted!

There are SEVEN layers of tulle, a satin underskirt, and a full cotton lining, Three of the tulle layers have lace edging that had to be stitched on by hand. The bottom-most tulle layer is in peach, so that there is a subtle blush tone to the skirt with a gradient effect. The satin bodice was constructed with a mesh overlay and the lace was then hand-stitched over it so that it did not get cut off over any of the seamlines. It has a side zipper for easy closure AND a corset back for size adjustment. The whole thing took me about 4 months to do from start to finish and I lost count of how much money I spent on supplies. My best guess in in the neighborhood of $400.

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This post has been edited by Una: 20 December 2018 - 05:46 PM

[Anomander]

Looks great, Una!

Macros, on 20 December 2018 - 07:59 AM, said:

from what little I know I will me making the hole 10mm bigger than my window.

I would increase that to 12mm personally; our installers always complain when they have less than 1/4" (or 6mm) on either side to play with.

[Slow Ben]

Anomander, on 20 December 2018 - 07:04 PM, said:

Looks great, Una!

Macros, on 20 December 2018 - 07:59 AM, said:

from what little I know I will me making the hole 10mm bigger than my window.

I would increase that to 12mm personally; our installers always complain when they have less than 1/4" (or 6mm) on either side to play with.

I had to do some conversions, but here we do 12.7mm

[Whisperzzzzzzz]

Una, on 20 December 2018 - 05:45 PM, said:

Official wedding photos are out!

I made this dress by hand. I probably didn't save that much money. Lace is expensive! But boy did I get exactly what I wanted!

There are SEVEN layers of tulle, a satin underskirt, and a full cotton lining, Three of the tulle layers have lace edging that had to be stitched on by hand. The bottom-most tulle layer is in peach, so that there is a subtle blush tone to the skirt with a gradient effect. The satin bodice was constructed with a mesh overlay and the lace was then hand-stitched over it so that it did not get cut off over any of the seamlines. It has a side zipper for easy closure AND a corset back for size adjustment. The whole thing took me about 4 months to do from start to finish and I lost count of how much money I spent on supplies. My best guess in in the neighborhood of $400.

That's a beautiful dress! I love the intricate patternwork in the lace. Almost like a suit of legendary fantasy armor (assuming it's made of magical lightweight-but-indestructible tulle/satin/cotton) with the delicate working.

How much experience did you have with similar projects prior to starting this?

[Una]

Whisperzzzzzzz, on 21 December 2018 - 01:36 AM, said:

That's a beautiful dress! I love the intricate patternwork in the lace. Almost like a suit of legendary fantasy armor (assuming it's made of magical lightweight-but-indestructible tulle/satin/cotton) with the delicate working.

How much experience did you have with similar projects prior to starting this?

The lace was purchased, but it came in 4 pieces of applique that I had to somehow puzzle-fit so that every bit of bodice was covered, but none of the pieces overlapped. It was one of the more difficult parts to do.

I took the standard home economics classes in high school, and with that I would make a Hallowe'en costume every few years if I felt like it. I haven't been sewing seriously until about 2-3 years ago, but all it was all day clothes. I had never made an evening gown before that, much less a ballgown. I think I had made 3 party dresses before that. There were a lot of new techniques I had to learn, like the lace-up back. Therefore, I made a dress for my maid of honour using the same pattern as the wedding dress, only in a different colour, knee-length, and minus all the lace appliques and tulle layering. That allowed me to practice for the real thing, and I didn't need to buy her a bridesmaid dress, plus it matched my dress!

[Macros]

Have the studs in for the bedrooms in my flat conversion.
Hoping to get windows cut in over the next few weeks

[Tsundoku]

Macros, on 14 January 2019 - 06:49 AM, said:

Have the studs in for the bedrooms in my flat

?? Thought this was a DIY thread ... ?? You subcontracting out your manwhoring now?

This post has been edited by Tsundoku: 14 January 2019 - 08:28 AM

[Traveller]

Oh man. So after laying the underfloor heating, tiling kitchen and utility floor over it, wiring it all up and getting it working (and it has been working nicely) I've managed to... cut the wire.

Yes, it takes a special type of tool to do this. Let's not assign blame, and point and laugh.. I'm inwardly doing all that! Question is, how to fix it. On the plus side, I've found the break. On the down, it's quite a fine wire with what seems like two copper insulated wires surrounded and bound into five silver coloured ones. I'm guessing the two copper ones are the heating element, being an 'out' and 'return' And the silver ones... give it more bulk? So in theory if I can join the two copper elements and re-bind, it should work? There's got to be a way...

[Slow Ben]

I don’t know how fine you’re talking, but they make butt joints to connect those. Some are crimp, the better ones are solder.